Cubo 15

all right thanks ! I will give it look today as I put together the remaining pieces

Hi All, what kind of paint are you using for your projects ?

I need to start painting my Cubos and I haven;t decided yet what to use. I really like the look of stained wood even if it Plywood but I'm worried it's not going to be very durable.
Speakers will be mostly used and stored indoor but I will move them around and load them into car truck etc.

a friend of mine uses truck bed liner paint so I may look into that , was wondering if someone can spare an advice

peace

I'm using Warnex, it's water-based (dries quickly) and you can apply it with a structure-roller for excellent results. There's also a product called Tuffcab (no experiences with it). Truck bed liner is also sometimes used, but the thing I like about Warnex is that it gives a profi look and is durable. It uses about 1 kg per Cubo 15, which is 2 or 3 layers.

If you like stained wood, you can use multiple layers of a clear polyurethane (water-based) lacquer. Or a 2-component topcoat for surface treating wooden floors in public areas with high traffic intensity (like parquet laquer). Multiple (thin) layers is the key to durability.

Best regards

Cubo

thanks for the reply Cubo...

at the end I decided on the truck bed liner paint, Warnex seems an easier paint to deal with being water based. I will give it a try for the mid tops I will build after the Cubos.
I will thin the paint about 30% with mineral spirit thinner, that should help the drying time.

the stained wood idea it's nice but the first cubo I've built has too many defects of the wood and it will look better if they get coated. for some reason the plywood chipped away in some area of cuts and holes and I'm not sure if they defects will go away just sanding it.

Hi there,

Thank for the design. So far built 3 cubo 15's and 2 cubo kick 15's . Great simple boxes Despite this we still made some errors building them and have only just noticed them. Essentially the baffle panel is not mounted correctly in 2 of the cubo 15's. the 9.5,16 and 20cm measurements are off upto 4 cm in one (id guess the 20 cm dimension is more like 24

Could you shed any light on how this will effect the performance? so far they sound great but wondering if they should sound better. It changes the shape of the horn and the volume i suppose? Really hoping its a negligible difference as dont fancy building them again.

Thanks

@Ricosound: For Warnex and I imagine similar protective coatings like truck bed liner, the short dry-time in combination with a structured roller ( sentosa.ro/wp/wp-content/uploads/Trafalet-T13.png ), gives a thicker orange-peel like surface area. thumbs.dreamstime.com/t/ruwe-oppervlakte...-warnex-30184373.jpg The uneven skin is much better in hiding scratches (which are inevitable after a couple months on the road). It's one of the few exceptions to the rule that multiple thin layers are better.

Plywood chipping away around cuts is in my experience is due to less then razor sharp saw blades. In those cases where the latter is unavailable, it can help to make a raw cut first, after which the final cut is made one or two millimetres smaller/ larger, at a slower pace.

@ROSSSSS224: If you make the horn larger and thus the chamber smaller you'll get some extra efficiency overall in return for a higher f3. Making the horn larger around the area you describe, would increase efficiency in the 63 Hz area. So altogether a more 63 Hz experience, in return for slightly less low frequency response.

If your costumers start reporting a negative detail to the sound, which they mention to be a "je ne sais quoi", you might be in the know of what that actually might be. Until then using more "correctly build" Cubo 15's will even the effect out.........eventually.

Just build (loads) more Cubo's

Best regards

Cubo

Hi Cubo

thanks for the info..I will look into Warnex in the future. The orange peel effect is what I was expecting with the roller I bought and the type of pain such the truck bed liner.
Haven't done the paint part yet as I am waiting for some connectors and cables, want to paint before I go in with the speakon etc...
I've cut the panels for my 2nd cube last saturday and my friend actually replaced the blade on the table saw...much better cuts and speed of cutting !
so all good on that...
good news is that I just found out that I have free access to a CNC wood cutting machine so I'm going to use that in the future and finally manage to do precise circles cuts for driver and recesses to host the handle and connector plates thickness into the plywood volume so they lay nice and flat with the overall surface.
I'm building a pair of mid tops 212 after the cubos....

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationhi guys...this might have been discussed somewhere already, did some research of it but wasn't able to find an full answer to it.
Is there a best solution for handle position on Cubo15 extended..?
handle in the horn area ( below baffle panel ) or handle inside the chamber ( above baffle panel ) ?
I have built one so far and put the handle in the horn area although as an after though I actually prefer the cleaner look of the box with the handle into the chamber so that the handle box is not visible from outside.
I will mount the driver in the horn area in my case....I have to build the 2nd cubo and Im thinking of placing the handle + box in the chamber. I wonder if this will have a noticeable affect on the overall sound when both are in action. ( one with handle visible / one not visible )....I should have made my decision clear from the beginning but can't go back now unless I build a third one.
I;ve been using these handles :


on the first cubo I've built they feel quite strong and solid....
thanks in advance for any suggestion

image of the handles

Thanks cubo!
Current cubo rig with mt 101's