cubo 12

Have build 2 box of this cubo 12 with Soundstream Arachnid Sub, thx man I love the low it made, have had played it outdoor though and it rocks.

Cubo15 wrote: The measurement of the 12NW100 is shown on the Cubo 12 plan-page (purple line). I liked the 12NW100 as it's a quality driver that will take a lot of power whilst it's still of decent efficiency. The 12SW1300nd will handle more power but I think it will also benefit from a lower crossover point as compared to the the 12NW100.

Best regards

Cubo

What about the 12TBX100, will it be a good CUBO 12 driver, plus a CUBO kick 12 on top with B&C 12FW76?

I will have a Boominator in the next week or so (under construction) and it will be used by its self for most things, but I want to have the ability to add some low frequency extension for 2 festivals we do every year.

Looking at building 2 or 4 Cubo12 and wondering if the Kappalite 3012MO may be a better choice than the LF for 12V applications (2-3dB extra sensitivity?), only need 50Hz to 120Hz realistically and I only want to feed them with around 20W each to maintain battery life? LF I guess would be a better choice if I also use them indoors of a normal power amp...

Thoughts, would the Cubo15 be a better option?

Thanks,

Dupe...

What about the 12TBX100, will it be a good CUBO 12 driver, plus a CUBO kick 12 on top with B&C 12FW76?

If you've got a 1000 Watts available and can cross at 80 - 100 Hz, the 12TBX100 is an excellent driver. If you only have 500 Watts available or need to pass the 100 Hz-mark there are better drivers out there.

The B&C 12FW76 will excel at the horn part (110 Hz and higher) and will only do so-so at the reflex part (90 - 110 Hz).

Looking at building 2 or 4 Cubo12 and wondering if the Kappalite 3012MO may be a better choice than the LF for 12V applications (2-3dB extra sensitivity?

The average sensitivity difference between the LF and HO in Cubo 12 will be neglectable. The LF will emphasise the low end of Cubo 12 whereas the HO will emphasise the high end.

Thoughts, would the Cubo15 be a better option?

If you're interested in what is between 40 - 50 Hz, then Cubo 15 is the better choice, if your not, 2 x Cubo 12 will have slightly higher sensitivity then a single Cubo 15.

Best regards

Cubo

Hello Cubo,
I have two CUBO 12, but now I am upgrading my system to go deeper, so I got a 18 subwoofer in an bass-reflex cabinet.

Can the CUBO 12 play between 80 and 300Hz? or better if I do another midbass cabinet?

I know it will work very well up to 140Hz, but I do not know if it will do a good job up to 300Hz. I was thinking to start putting the magnet in the chamber.
My driver is the 12NW100 (B&C)
www.bcspeakers.com/products/lf-driver/12-0/12nw100

Thank you in advace for your replay
Best Regards,
Pedro

300 Hz is too high, about 20 Hz higher with the magnet inside the chamber than with the magnet inside the horn. So if you like the sound with the magnet inside the horn up to 140 Hz, then 160 Hz is as high as I would go (massive dips in the frequency response after that).

Cubo Kick 12 will get close, probably about 100 - 275 Hz:

Your safest bet is a reflex cabinet though.

Best regards

Cubo

Looking at building 2 or 4 Cubo12 and wondering if the Kappalite 3012MO may be a better choice than the LF for 12V applications (2-3dB extra sensitivity?

The average sensitivity difference between the LF and HO in Cubo 12 will be neglectable. The LF will emphasise the low end of Cubo 12 whereas the HO will emphasise the high end.

Thoughts, would the Cubo15 be a better option?

If you're interested in what is between 40 - 50 Hz, then Cubo 15 is the better choice, if your not, 2 x Cubo 12 will have slightly higher sensitivity then a single Cubo 15.

Best regards

Cubo

Thanks for the feedback, very usefull, I think I will go with the 15s, I will ask about drivers in the Cubo15 forum...

Thanks,

Simon...

Hi all,

Trying to build a cubo12 from the hosted plan. Presumably these don't need to be millimetre perfect and my carpentry skills don’t get close to that but...

I cant get the measurements to add up.

If I take the angles and do some trig. the lengths are off by a few millimetres here and there.

If I take the lengths the angles make more sense (off by a fraction) but still some of the lengths are off.

e.g. the top angled panel marked 304mm length.
gives me an angle of 9.180541958 hypotenuse = 300.853785085 rather than 304

Any one know how the measurements are created and which ones are the important ones and which should be calculated?

I'm tempted to presume that the widths of the horn as it opens are more important than the angles and lengths. It that a sensible presumption.

Hi Paul are you working out the plans based on 15mm or 18mm ply?

Calculating with 15mm ply.